Spain 2023, Day 10: Ávila

For the 5th and penultimate day trip of my trip, I went to Ávila, Spain’s walled city. Ávila is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Who knows how many I had visited on my trip by this point? Ávila’s medieval defensive walls are the best preserved medieval fortifications in Spain. The walls and a number of churches and convents located outside the walls together make up the World Heritage Site.

It took me about 20 minutes to walk from the train station to my 1st sighting of the walls. And what a sight it was! This specifically is the *Puerta de San Vicente*, 1 of the 2 most prominent of the walls’ gates.

Basilica of San Vicente

The construction of the basilica (which looks unusually like a train station in the view above) took about 2 centuries, from the 12th to the 14th. It’s considered to be one of Spain’s premier examples of Romanesque architecture.

The elaborate cenotaph for Saints Vicente, Sabina, and Cristeta, martyred by the Romans in the early 4th century during the most brutal period of persecution of Christians in the Roman Empire. The polychrome cenotaph is a premier example of Romanesque sculpture.

In the center of the photo, in a Baroque chapel in the basilica’s crypt, is Our Lady of the Underground, the patron saint of Ávila. The figure is a 13th-century polychrome.

Walls of Ávila

The walls were built between the 11th and 14th centuries. The walls enclose an area of 77 acres. They are over 1 1/2 miles long and have 88 towers and 9 gates. The average width is almost 10 feet. Probably their most unusual feature is the apse of the Ávila Cathedral, which is incorporated into the eastern wall.

Finally ready to pass through the gate and enter the walled city!

It’s great fun to walk along the wall. Walking is allowed on 2 sections of the wall, about half of the wall altogether. I walked along 1 portion in the morning and the other at the end of the day. A portion of Ávila Cathedral can be seen here, with flying buttresses to the right.

The cathedral’s tower seen from the wall. A French influence is apparent. (We’ll get more into that soon.)

A more complete view of the cathedral from the wall.

Ávila Cathedral

Ávila Cathedral’s proper name is Catedral de Cristo Salvador (Cathedral of the Saviour). Construction began in the 12th century and was substantially competed in the 15th century, with work on specific elements continuing through the 17th century. It was the 1st Gothic cathedral in Spain. Gothic architecture in Spain was primarily introduced via France, which is why Ávila Cathedral shows a lot of French influence–for the example the flying buttresses.

The cathedral’s intricate retrochoir, carved in the plateresque style popular in Spain in the late Gothic and early Renaissance periods.

A scene from the Bible, the Massacre of the Innocents, carved into the retrochoir.

A scene of torment in the Chapel of San Ildefonso.

Beautifully preserved decor in the cathedral.

What’s a Gothic cathedral without more beautiful, religious-themed stained glass?

The easternmost portion of the ambulatory is the site of the Chapel of Our Lady of Grace. The ambulatory encircles the apse, which is the portion of the cathedral that is incorporated into the walls of Ávila.

Brightly painted artwork in the Chapel of St. Peter.

Gothic architecture inside the cathedral.

The stunning 16th-century altarpiece at the high altar.

The primary exhibit in the cathedral’s museum is the processional monstrance created by German-Spanish artist Juan de Arphe y Villafañe in 1571. It’s entirely made of silver and weighs about 155 pounds.

A sign of the times. Outside the cathedral, I came across this charming, timely artwork.

Exterior view of the cathedral’s ambulatory. The ambulatory encircles the apse, which is incorporated into the wall.

Royal Monastery of St. Thomas

The Royal Monastery of St. Thomas (Real Monasterio de Santo Tomás in Spanish), was originally commissioned as a convent by Ferdinand and Isabella, the Catholic Monarchs. They spent their summers at the monastery. It is 1 of the 3 Gothic convents included in Ávila’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the 7 Romanesque churches and, of course, the walls. Construction was completed in 1493. Tomás de Torquemada, the infamous Grand Inquisitor of the Spanish Inquisition, died in the monastery in 1498. He was buried in the monastery, but more than 300 years later, near the end of the Inquisition, his tomb was ransacked. It is said that his bones were stolen and burned in a somewhat ironic auto-da-fé. (An auto-da-fé was the death by burning during the Inquisition.)

A bird makes its home atop the monastery’s bell tower.

The large altarpiece, painted by early Spanish Renaissance painter Pedro Berruguete, depicts scenes from the life of Thomas Aquinas, the namesake of the monastery.

In front of the altar, the monument to John, Prince of Asturias, son of Ferdinand and Isabella. He died at 19 and missed his chance at succeeding his parents as the reigning monarch of Spain.

The Christ of Saint Teresa was created by Gil de Siloé, a 15th-century Flemish artist who worked in Spain.

The sculpture is named for Teresa of Ávila, a 15th-century nun and religious reformer who was canonized after her death. Also known as Saint Teresa of Jesus, she is Ávila’s most celebrated figure.

Museum of Oriental Art

I’m embarrassed to admit that I have absolutely to recollection of the monastery having a Museum of Oriental Art. But I’ve got the pictures to prove not only that it does have 1, but that I was there!

Very intricate 18th-century temple sculpture known as a Taoist Mountain.

Museum of Natural Sciences

A scary-looking flying fox. (That’s *zorro volador* in Spanish.)

The monastery also has a Museum of Natural Sciences. I have no recollection of that either.

Another scary critter in the Museum of Natural Sciences.

The Western Walls

While crossing the old town within the walls, I was surprised to come across this large square–Plaza del Mercado Chico. Up until that point, the streets had been mostly very narrow.

I planned the day so that I’d view the walled city from the west late in the day so I’d get the best light. It was a good plan. As I crossed the old town, especially once I passed Plaza del Mercado Chico, I was surprised by how rlifeless the place felt. There were very few businesses on the west side of the old town. This was very much in contrast to the old towns of Segovia and Toledo, that were vibrant throughout. It was a little eerie, to be honest.

I made it past the walls on the west side and took in this beautiful sight.

This pedestrian bridge–leading from the town center west, over a small river–was originally built by the Romans. So of course I had to check it out.

A view of the Roman bridge from the river’s edge.

The gorgeous view of the walled city from a hilltop to the northwest.

Based on the advice of a person at the tourist office, which I visited upon my arrival in Ávila, I took a path over a wooden bridge to a hilltop to get the best view of the Walls of Ávila. She was right. I’ve seen pictures of the walls lit up at night. I can only imagine how beautiful a sight it is to see in person. I would have had to catch very late train back to Madrid to see the walls lit up. But I can’t complain about the view above.

On the hilltop, the logo of Ávila. This is the place!

While I was on the hilltop, a tour bus pulled up so all the tourists on board could take in the view. I’m generally not a tour group type of guy, and I’m glad I did it all on my own. But I was also glad everyone got to take in this view.

May the mighty Walls of Ávila stand forever!

When I got back to the wall, I walked along the 2nd walkable portion. And then it was time to head back to Madrid. What a day it was!

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]