Billy's Cities

Explore the great cities of the world!

  • Blog
  • Destinations
  • Travel Planning
  • How I Travel
  • All About
  • Contact Me
Home North America United States Northern California 2019, Day 5: Sacramento, Day 3

Billy May 11, 2024 2 Comments

Northern California 2019, Day 5: Sacramento, Day 3

Historic Sacramento

On the last day of my mini-adventure in Northern California beyond the bay, I visited some of Sacramento’s most important historic sites.  Doing so helped me gain an appreciation for the important place Sacramento has in the history of California.  This broadened my appreciation for the history of Northern California that began back in 2016 when I set out on the Barbary Coast Trail in San Francisco.  I couldn’t remain the New England snob I started out as, thumbing my nose at the notion of California history.

Sutter’s Fort

Approaching the reconstructed Fort Sutter. The original Fort Sutter was built in 1841-1843.

My first stop of the day was Sutter’s Fort State Historic Park.  So, who was Sutter and what was the deal with his fort?  John Sutter was a German-Swiss immigrant to what was then Mexican territory.  Sutter established his outpost as a trading and agricultural colony.  It was the first non-indigenous settlement in California’s Central Valley.

Statue of John Sutter.
Inside the walls of Sutter’s Fort.
The trade store at Sutter’s Fort.
Comfy quarters.
The gunsmith shop.
The vaquero (cowboy) room.
The kitchen.
Firing up the beehive oven to bake the bread.
A replica of one of emigrant pioneer wagons that brought settlers west.
The weaving room, where the designs of the House of Sutter were fashioned.

In addition to his fort, Sutter owned a sawmill on the American River in Coloma, northeast of Sacramento, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada.  Sutter’s Mill was operated by Sutter’s business partner, James Marshall.  One morning in January 1848, Marshall noticed something shiny in the water beyond the mill.  A few days later, he met up with Sutter at Sutter’s Fort to show him his golden discovery.  Sutter wanted to keep things quiet because he was afraid that news of the discovery would ruin his plans for an agricultural empire.  But the news quickly got out.  The California Gold Rush was on!

State Indian Museum

The State Indian Museum opened in 1940.

The California State Indian Museum is located right behind Sutter’s Fort.  It’s common knowledge that European settlers treated Native Americans atrociously, and John Sutter was no exception.  The California Gold Rush only made things worse as prospectors drove out the natives from the longtime land.  The State Indian Museum aims to preserve the culture of California’s first inhabitants.  I didn’t take any pictures inside, but I did buy an arrowhead as a souvenir.

A Native Californian playing music.

Sacramento Chinatown

Traditional Chinese gate located in the remains of Sacramento’s Chinatown.

From Sutter’s Fort and the State Indian Museum, I took a bus across town to the area close to Sacramento’s waterfront along the Sacramento River.  My first stop there was what’s left of Sacramento’s Chinatown.  In years past, it was California’s second biggest Chinatown.  There’s little left of it now.  Partly this is due to the success of the Chinese in Sacramento.  San Francisco was much more discriminatory to its Chinese population, restricting where they could live to Chinatown.  Sacramento was somewhat less restrictive and discriminatory, allowing the Chinese to assimilate and have success in the city beyond Chinatown.

The revered Sun Yat Sen, father of he modern China. We’ve see him a few times before, including at the Presidential Palace in Nanjing and at St. Mary’s Square here in San Francisco.

And as is often the case, “urban renewal” in the mid-20th century often meant that minority neighborhoods were razed in the name of progress.

I couldn’t resist taking a picture of this plaque referring to the Big Four railroad tycoons of San Francisco. These other Big Four were Chinese workers from 4 counties in Guangdong province (here called Kwantung) who worked on the railroad. New Helvetia at the bottom refers to the agricultural empire that John Sutter had dreamed of, with Sutter’s Fort as its hub.
Surely you know by now how much I love these decorative figures on Chinese-style roofs.
Weird Clock Tower structure by New York artist R. M. Fischer.
Indo Arch sculpture by Sacramento sculptor Gerald Walburg.

Old Sacramento

Beautiful historic buildings in Old Sacramento.

After exploring the remains of Sacramento’s Chinatown, I continued toward the Sacramento River waterfront to the Old Sacramento Historic District.  Here you can really get a feel for how important Sacramento was in the development of California–first as the western terminus of the Pony Express, then the western terminus of the first transcontinental railroad and the first transcontinental telegraph.

A time-traveler makes his way through Old Sacramento.

Much of the Old Sacramento Historic District is made up of Old Sacramento State Historic Park.  Old Sacramento has more historic buildings than anywhere else in the western U.S. of similar size.

Pony Express statue by California sculpture and polo player Thomas Holland.
On the waterfront! In the background, the Art Deco Tower Bridge, opened in 1935, previously glimpsed on Day 1 and Day 4. In the foreground, the Delta King steamboat.

The Delta King is a great illustration of the relationship between Sacramento and San Francisco.  Steamboats were the main method of transportation between the 2 cities before modern highways and bridges were built.  The Delta King ran the route between 1927 and 1940.  It’s now a hotel permanently moored at the Sacramento waterfront.

The Big Four Building, built in 1855.

Those Big Four are showing up again.  3 of the future Big Four had shops in the building.  You can see the names of 2 of the Big Four, Collis Huntington and Mark Hopkins, on the central section.  Leland Stanford had a shop in 1 of the other sections.  Together with Charles Crocker, they collaborated on the 2nd floor to plan and create their railroad empire.

Inside Huntington & Hopkins Hardware in the Big Four Building.

California State Railroad Museum

All aboard the California State Railway Museum!

I saved the best for last.  The California State Railway Museum was the grand finale of my day exploring the history of Sacramento, and it’s probably Sacramento’s most popular attraction.  It highlights the importance of Sacramento in the history of the transcontinental railroad as its western terminus.

The large hall holds the museum’s Sierra Scene, which depicts construction of the railroad through the Sierra Nevada. Featured is a locomotive named after one of our Big Four favorites–Leland Stanford.
Choo Choo Charlie was an engineer! Now he gives lectures at the California State Railroad Museum about working on the railroad.
Chinese laborers making the railroad happen.
The museum’s Great Hall.
Engine, engine number 9, going down Chicago line. Or engine number 12, as the case may be.
A depiction of Mexican-American laborers, who made a significant contribution to the expansion of the railroads.
Inside a 1930s dining car. What was fun about walking through this was that the car was mounted on a mechanism that made you feel like the train was actually riding along the tracks. The tables are set with authentic sets of dining car china.
King of the Road!
There’s something about a train that’s magic!

And that wraps up my pre-pandemic travel (except, of course, for the Day 5 Food Diary).  Stay tuned for a way-off-the-beaten-path, covid-inclusive 2022 mini-adventure.

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]

Related posts:

San Francisco 2016, Day 2, Part 2 San Francisco 2017, Day 7 Northern California 2019, Day 1: Sacramento, Day 1 Northern California 2019 Food Diary, Day 5
  • Share
  • Tweet

Filed Under: United States Tagged With: History, North America, Sacramento, United States, US West

« Northern California 2019 Food Diary, Day 4
Northern California 2019 Food Diary, Day 5 »

Comments

  1. Will R. says

    May 14, 2024 at 10:36 am

    Always enjoyable. Thanks for letting me tag along on your journey.

    Reply
    • Billy says

      May 19, 2024 at 9:10 pm

      Hi Will,

      Thanks for your comment. I’m glad you enjoyed my post. I’ve started working on a new set of posts about another Northern California mini-adventure I had. This time to an unexpected place. Coming your way soon.

      Billy O

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Recent Comments

  • Billy on Introduction to the California Delta 2022
  • BRIAN A QUIGLEY on Introduction to the California Delta 2022
  • Billy on Northern California 2019, Day 5: Sacramento, Day 3
  • Will R. on Northern California 2019, Day 5: Sacramento, Day 3
  • Billy on Crosstown Trail

Categories

  • Asia
    • East Asia
    • South Asia
  • Europe
    • Iberia
  • Media
  • North America
    • United States
  • Uncategorized

Copyright © 2025 · Streamline Pro Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

 

Loading Comments...