Tradition and Modernism in Seoul

The beginning of my 2nd day in Seoul was filled with traditional Korean beauty. Gradually over the rest of the day, the tradition mixed with more modern elements.

Jongmyo

In Seoul, it doesn’t get much more traditional than Jongmyo. Jongmyo is a Confucian shrine originally built in 1394. (Who knew Confucianism played such a role in traditional Korean society? It just goes to show the massive Chinese influence on Korean culture.) Located just to the south of Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung, Jongmyo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For centuries, Jongmyo was the location of memorial rituals for deceased kings and queens.

The vast stone yard in front of Jeongjeon, the main hall at Jongmyo.

A different take on roof ornaments at Jongmyo.

Covered walkway at Jeongjeon. Jeongjeon is another National Treasure of Korea and it’s the long traditional Korean building.

Royal ceremonial clothing worn for rituals at Jongmyo.

The king was transported around Jongmyo in this palanquin.

Cheonggyecheon

I headed further south from Jongmyo till I reached Cheonggyecheon. Cheonggyecheon is the result of an enormous urban renewal project that restored a befouled and built-over waterway. It’s now a clean-water, naturalized stream running through central Seoul for over 5 miles. And let me tell you, it’s a beautiful place for a stroll, just under the hum of the massive city.

It’s really a serene spot to take a break from busy Seoul.

Thanks to stone crossings like this one, you can pass from side to side of the stream.

At the western end of Cheonggyecheon, I reached this waterfall at Cheonggye Plaza.

*Spring*, by Dutch artist Coosje van Bruggen, celebrates the rebirth of the waterway.

The statue of 16th-century Korean war hero Admiral Yi Sun-sin. In the background, those rugged mountains of Seoul that fascinated me.

Kinetic sculpture *Hammering Man* by American sculptor Jonathan Borofsky.

Gyeonghuigung

Time for another palace! From Cheonggye Plaza, I headed further west to Gyeonghuigung, another of Seoul’s grand palaces. There was a lot of renovation going on, so there wasn’t quite a lot to see.

Deoksugung

After a very quick visit to Gyeonghuigung, I walked to Deoksugung. Not only was Deoksugung my 4th grand palace of the day, but it my 5th and final of Seoul’s 5 grand palaces. All in 2 days. Whew!

A beautiful floral display at Deoksugung.

The throne room inside Junghwajeon, Deoksugung’s throne hall.

I wasn’t expecting this at one of Seoul’s grand palaces. I bet you weren’t either. Seokjojeon, a Western-style building, was built in 1910, the last year of the short-lived Korean Empire.

Pretty Jeonggwanheon Pavilion contains both Western and traditional Korean design elements.

Seoul City Hall

This is a little confusing and I don’t think I even realized it at the time. The traditional-looking building with the clock on it is the former Seoul City Hall. It was built in 1925 during the Japanese occupation as a colonial government building. It became Seoul City Hall when Korea was liberated in 1945. It is now Seoul Metropolitan Library. The current Seoul City Hall, built 2008-2012, looks like a glass wave about to crash over the Library.

The I SEOUL U sign looks like it was clearly inspired by the well known “I amsterdam” sign. It feels like a bit of bad sloganeering to me. It even sounds a bit threatening!

Dongdaemun

After about 11 hours of wandering around Seoul on foot, I finally hopped back on the subway and headed to Dongdaemun, Seoul’s “Great Eastern Gate”. Dongdaemun also refers to the very vibrant district around it in the center of Seoul.

A remaining portion of the ancient Fortress Wall of Seoul rises above the hill across from Dongdaemun.

Unexpectedly gorgeous ceiling inside Dongdaemun.

All of Seoul’s historic gates have direction-based named, such as Dongdaemun. The Great Eastern Gate’s official name is Heunginjimun (“Gate of Rising Benevolence”).

Just to the south–and across our newish friend, urban stream Cheonggyecheon–is the very modern Dongdaemun Design Plaza.

This unusual 2017 bronze sculpture by Kim Young-won is titled *Shadow of Shadow – Flower Blossom*.

Behind Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a charming field of electric blooms.

Gwangjang Market

Back across Cheonggyecheon again, I walked further (yes, more walking) to Gwangjang Market. Gwangjang is one of South Korea’s oldest and largest traditional markets. It is very bustling, with perhaps thousands of vendors.

Like I said, Gwangjang Market is large and bustling. And based on the flags, very international!

After dinner, I gave my feet a rest and took the subway back to my guesthouse. Was Day 8 a full day or what? I’m exhausted just from remembering it!

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]